Device for applying centers to shirts.



J. C. HAWLEY & W. S. JACKSON.

DEVICE FOR APPLYING CENTERS T0 SHIRTS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 27. 1913- Patented Mar. 19, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

INVENTORS A TTO'RNEY I. C. HAWLEY & W. S. JACKSON.

DEVICE FOR APPLYING CENTERS T0 SHIRTS.

vrucmou n20 IAN-27,1913.

- 1,259,980. Patented Mar. 19, 1918.

2 sums-sun 2.

' lNvENToR:

M4. M aw/M "UNITED STATES PATENT oEEro JOSEPH o. HAWLEY, or DUNCAN-NON,AND WILLIAM STEELL JACKSON, OELBALA, PENNSYLVANIA. 1 K

DEVICEFOR APPLYING CENTERS 'ro' SHIRTS.

To all whom iii-may concern:

Be it known that we, JOSEPH C. HAWLEY and l/VILLIAM STEELL JACKSON,citizens .of

the United States, residing at Duncannon,

Perry. county, Pennsylvania, and Bala, Montgomery county, Pennsylvania,respectively, have invented a certain new and useful Deviceifor-Applying Centers to Shirts, of which the following .is a specification.

The purpose of our invention is to auto matically superimpose a shirtedge at the front opening and center, with a lining within the center,preferablytpassing' one within the folded edge of the other, so thatthey. can be united in their superimposed positions. I Afurther purposeof ourinvention is to inclose the edge of a shirt at the front openingbetween adjoining and overlapping folded center edgesso that they can beunited in this position; 7 A further. purpose of our invention is toautomatically fold a line'dv shirt center, and the edge of a shirt atthefront opening,

forming the overlap of the center parts upon the side of the center uponwhich the shirt lies and the fold of the shirt edge toward the center,so that the superimposed shirt and center can befed to a sewing machine.Preferably, we interlap the fold of the shirt within the fold "of thecenter. Further purposes of=our invention will appear in thespecification and claims thereof.

We have preferred to illustrate our invention by several forms thereofwhich have been successfully constructed and Whichhave proved to besimple, inexpensive and highly efficient and which at" the .sameitimewell illustrate the principles of Olll invention.

- Figure 1 is a frontelevation of one form of center folder usedwitlrour invention. 1

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of the structure shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 2 is a section similar to that of Fig. 2 of a second form of centerfolder.

Fig. 3 is a section of the structure shown in Fig. 2, upon line 33thereof.

Fig. 4 is a section. upon-line 4% of Fig. 2. i i

Fig. 4: 19 a "section"corresponding to Fig.

3'but of a modified form. V I

Fig. 5 is a side-elevation of another form i of folder.

the arrangement of F igq9 V is a section of Fig. 10 upon line-Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Mar. 19, 1918.

Application filed January 27, 1913. Serial No. 744,300.

Fig. 6 is a section at point 6- 6 of.

may place the shirt and center for attach:

Inent. v I p Fig. .10 is a side elevation of a hemming attachment andfolder capable of producing Fig. 11 11ll.

Fig. 11 is asection corresponding to Fig. 11 of a construction capableof forming the combination shown in Fig. :9".

' Fig. 12 is a side elevation showing the i use of one of our folderscombined with :an

inter-lapping hemmer. I

r Fig. 13 is a section upon line 13- 1301 the structure shown in Fig.12.

Fig. 14 is a section of a structure similar to ithatin Fig. 13 butshowing another form of center folder.

Fig. 14 is a modified has. similar a I Fig. .14.

In the manufacturing of shirts particu larly. ofthe neglige type, adecoration or finishl technically known as a ,-center is placedvertically upon the front of the shirt covering the edgeof the shirt atthe center opening. 7

Our invention finds such excellent illustration in its application tofolding,applying and lining such shirt centers that we have preferred todescribe it and claim it in term of shirts and centers, notwithstandingthat we recognize its usefulness in fo'ld-' ing, applying and liningother fabric fac-- -1ngs, backings or strips and contemplate such otheruses of the principles of our inventionas Within the scope of thisapplication. We, therefore, use the shirt and center terms merely "asemblematic or rep- ;resentative of any flexible parts which re quirefolding and application, with or withour invention.

'WVejwill briefly describe severalexce-llent forms of folders with whichwe have preoutlining, within the spirit and scope ferred to illustrateour invention and then r a show the combinations of these which bestcarry out our invention. The forms illustrated in Figs. 14: aredescribed and claimed in a copending application for a center liner andfolder filed by Joseph C. Hawley for folder and liner for shirt centers,filed January 27, 1913, Ser. No. 744,298, and are described at morelength in said application. 1 The machineconstruction withwhich ourinvention is shown, may be of any form and here comprises a table 16above which is placed presser foot 17 and through which needles 18, 19,20 and 21 (Fig. 11) operate at convenient points. We have shown fourneedles, in the positions indicated, as representative of any requiredor desired number or arrangement of needles for the several lines ofstitching to be made, whether these lines of stitching be decorative orbe required to unite the fabrics.

We will briefly describe the construction of Figs. 1, 2 and 3' first. Inorder that the center lining mechanism may be properly supported infront of the needles, we mount it upon the table 16 by means of anysuitable bracket having base 22, end 23, top 24 and rearwardly extendingsupport 25.

In this way a lining device 26 is shown as supported at an angle, sothat the lined center, comes out of the folder at 27 and may beflattened as at '28, in Figs. 10 and 12, where the shirt is also fedtothe machine.

The center includes the outer casing 29 slotted at 30, to permit accessto the fabric fed, having under sides 31 joined to the upper side bycurved edges 32. The outer as well as the inner sides of this folder arepreferably tapered quite appreciably, the greater part at least of thedistance to the front, to, say, point 33, as best seen in Fig. 6.

An inner casing of nearly the same shape provides a passage way 34between the easings of nearly uniform depth, measured perpendicularlyacross the passage. Because of the taper, the strip of fabricbeing-folded does not have its edges in contact where it enters at therear end while these edges are designed, in the illustrations, tooverlap at the forward or delivery end to any desired extent andat anydesired location laterally. The casings are shown as united at the rearas at 35. The passage may be made con tinuous perimetrically at thelower or innerend of my device as at 34,s0 that the edges of the cloth36, 37 forming the shirt center, may not only meet but there pass atanydesigned point 38, (Fig. 3) in the folder width, with the resultthat thefabric edges are completely closed and overlap, so that a seam may beformed through them by a needle appropriately placed.

The inner member is made hollow throughout its length to provide passageand guide 39 for the fabric 40 of a lining for the center.

The lower part 39 of passage 39, as well as the lower parts illustratedof the passages 34 is shown as transversely curved in this form, thecurved form providing additional width for the lining to fill out thecenter to its full interior width.

Access to the lining is had through a slot 41 in the wall 42, forming atthe same time the lower wall of the passage 34 and the upper wall of thepassage 39 throughout the major part of the length of this passage. Thepassage may easily be found by means of extension 43 and the lining maythus be readily started within the passage. A stiff lining will itselfperform a spreading function within the center. This spreading may alsobe performed by wings 47', 47 forming, in this case, parts of plate 47but satisfied by any means'of supporting spreading edges of the plate.

The second form corresponds generally with the first, but lacks thebowing for ourvature of the delivery end as will be seen from the Fig.2. The lining device 26 is intended to be supported similarly to thefirst form. The upper part of its outer casing 29 is the same as that ofthe first form, but the under side 31 joined thereto at 32 issubstantially straight throughout its length, as is the lining passage39.

We superimpose a lined center, andthe edge of a shirt at the frontopening to which it is to be applied, and illustrate a few of thevarious ways in which this can be done.

Our invention relates to the combinations formed between the folder forthe lined strip and the hemmer, whereby the products of these two arefurnished to the machine in certain relations, hereinafter morespecifically indicated. In some forms we purpose interlapping the shirtedge and folded strip, whether the. edge be hemmed or not, while inother forms the fabrics are merely superimposed.

Both edges of the strip are folded within the passage 34 or. 34'. Thepassage turns downwardly (see Fig. 8) and then inwardly, turning theedges of the passage toward each other. One is shown as terminating at44, near the delivery end, just after the turn 32 has been made at 45and reversely turning it at 46. By means of division plate 50 and thisinturned edge the folder passage 48 is formed and the edge 37 is foldedinwardly preferably in superimposed position with respect to the inwardturn of the edge 36 of the center, leaving a space 49 for the edge ofthe shirt. The shirt 51 and center with the lining 40, are thus fedtogether to the sewing machine with the right side of the shirt upandthe skirt of the shirt ahead of the neck of the shirt, 1'. 6., with theskirt farthest froni the observer in Fig.9. In this case the shirt edge52.need not be hemmed as it is finished by the two folded edges 3.6 and37. The form of one of the edges 32- .of the vouter casing 29 isunchanged. The under part at 31 is more flat relatively than in Fig. 3and a somewhat dilferent form of terminal for the lining passage isshown at 39 I In Figs. 9 9 10, 11 and 11 we pass its inclosed lining tothe machine superimposed upon the hemmed edge 52 of the sh-irtfilwithout interlapping of its edges with the folded edge of the strip. Anentirely 86pm rate body fabric hemmer is used.

e prefer to aline the outer overlapping dg of the center and the hem ofh Shif placing the edge of the center near the edge of the shirt asshown.

In Fig. 11 we show a combination of the same folder with a differentkind of hemming attachment giving an additional turn to the shirt edge,producing the structure shown in Fig. 9

In another form of our invention (shown.

in Figs. 13 and Hand, in modified form, in Fig. 14) we open the lowerpart of the discharge end of the folder, to any extent desired, as is,indeed,-true of Figs. 58, but with the difference that the opening ismade to face in an opposite direction. We thus lead out one edge, aS 36,of the overlapping edges, guiding it positively between the outer wall55 and the inner wall 55 of this relatively flared under part, andextending the adjoining under edge of the lower outer casing member 31as at 56 to carry the other overlapping edge 37 of the fabric. The parts29 are modified in Fig. 13 and 29 in Fig. 14 to give a larger curvatureat 32 and 32 than at the edge 32, 32 and the passages 34 34 arecorrespondingly modified. This reverse overlap gives us room to guidethe shirtedge within the edge 36 and between it and the edge 37, i. 6.,entering from right to left, as distinguished from the left to rightentering movement of the shirt edge in the structure of Figs. 5-8, andmakes the shirt and the center each cover the raw edge of the other,interlapping each within the other.

As the body of the shirt preferably occupics the same position in thiscombination as in the combination of Figs. 58 and 9 it is necessary tohem the edge of the shirt in order that it may terminate at the left.This is done by a hemmer attached preferably to the extension 56 as at57 and turned around the edges of the parts 55 and 55 to form theentering shirt guide 58. This forms the interlapped fold showndiagrammatically in Fig. 9.

The edges 59, 60 of the wall extensions 55, 55 are so formed as to clearany opening easily be extended sufficiently to give full room for theedge 36.

, Fig. 13 is shown as adapted tot-he form of folder shown in Fig. 3,while Figs. 4, 1.4 and 14 are adapted to that shown in Fig. 4.

In the form shown in Figs. 4 and 14317.2 7 provide additional lining bycutting away the inner folder wall at its. edges, asat 63,

near the delivery end, continuing the top and bottom plate likeportions; 6% and 615, preferably to the end. of the folder. The outercasings 29 'in Fig. 14 and Fig. 4* connect with different edge contoursindicated at 32 and 32 in Fig. 14 and at 3:25 in Fig. 4. The under sideof the outer ing-is'al-so shown as different in Fig. 14 at 31*, and thelower part of the passage at 39' in Fig. P" is shown as continuous,corrc sponding in this particular with that of F ig.'3.

The sections are taken near the deli-very end where the edges of thetube forming the lining guide have been removed leaving thelining'passage openat the edges 68 and 69, the remainder of the tubebeing represented by plates only as a result, upon the delivery side ofthe section and by a tube slightly wider than would otherwise bepermissible, providing for a wider passage in that part of the tubetoward the rear from the section. 1

In the form, Fig. 14*, we have illustrated an application thecombination of a folder with a double turned hemmer which is obviouslyapplicable equally well to the form shown in Figs. 13. and 14:. Thisdouble turned hem in the garment is not ordinarily required, perhaps notusually desired,where the raw edge can be otherwise protected, as inFig. 9.

In Fig. 14* we have shown the extra turning of the garment edge asaccomplished by means of a bend 70 in the continuation of theoverlapping edge of the outer center guide wall and extending one of theinner walls or platesas at 71.

It will be evident that the lateral opening of one side of the centerguide need not be limited to the comparatively short length shown inFig. 12 but'can extend through as much-of the lengthof the device as maybe desired, in view of the requirements of individual uses or thepreferences of different designers.

In Figs. 11 and 11 we show sections illustrating the superposition of afolded center with a lining and a shirt edge folded once, in Fig. 11, bya hemmer 72, and twice in Fig.

11 by a hemmer 7 3, the general arrangement of the parts being shown inFig. 10. The result is shoWn in Figs. 9? and 9 Having thus described ourinvention, what We claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patentis:

1. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder, open laterallyat its delivery end, a guide for lining therein and a hernmer for theedge of a garment entering the opening in said first mentioned folderand interlapping the edge of the garment with the edge of the strip.

2. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder adapted to foldboth edges of the strip and having the walls of the passages for the twoedges of the strip overlapping at the delivery end, a lining guidewithin the folder and a guide for a fabric adapted to deliver the edgeof the fabric between the overlapping edges of the strip.

3. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder for both edges ofa strip, a lin ing guide Within the strip folder and a hornmer for afabric delivering the turned edge of the fabric between one folded edgeof the strip and the lining.

4. In a device of the character stated, a

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents strip folder adapted to fold both edges of astrip and having the walls forming the passsages for the two edges ofthe strip overlapping, a linlng guide Within the folder and a hemmer fora fabric turning the edge of and placing the hem directly in linevertically with the outer of the folded portions of the strip.

5. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder adapted to foldboth edges of a strip and having the walls forming the passages for thetwo edges of the strip overlapping, a lining guide within the folder anda hemmer for a fabric turning the edge of the fabric so that it faces inthe salnesdirection as the inner edge of the folded strip and placing itbetween the outer and inner overlapping edges of the folded strip.

JOSEPH C. HAWVLEY. lVILLIAM STEELL JACKSON.

Witnesses to HaWley signature:

MARY E. REUTTER, CATI-IARINE HAWLEY.

Witnesses to Jackson signature:

SALLIE J. BOGAN, Josnrn B. BOGAN.

Washington, D. C.

